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Way of the Islands

Stage 1: Horsens to Søvind - 16 km

Description​

Start your journey at the 16th-century Hospitalkirke, before a short stroll to the majestic Klosterkirke, the city’s oldest landmark. From here, join the Fjordminoen trail, heading east along the northern coast of Horsens Fjord. The urban bustle quickly fades as you pass through the coastal meadows of Stensballe and roll past scenic views over the water.

Leaving the coastline behind, the path turns inland through lush countryside and open fields, guiding you into the heart of Søvind—a charming village known for its historic church, cozy community spirit, and peaceful rural backdrop.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • You can easily reach Horsens by train from most of Denmark, including Copenhagen and Aarhus.  If you come from abroad, you might consider to fly to Billund airport and then take a quick public bus. 

  • Grocery: Several supermarkets are available in Horsens. The next  opportunity to shop will be in Søvind, at the end of the stage—please check opening hours in advance. 

  • Restaurants: A pizzeria is available in Søvind, open from 4pm. 

  • Alternative overnight options:  you can pitch a tent or use shelters in several locations  once passed Søvind, details available via the “Shelter” app. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations through Airbnb.  Rooms for rent are available at Søvind Kro but needs to be agreed in advance.

horsens-fjord.jpg

Spiritual input​

​"East, west, south, or north makes little difference. No matter what your destination, just be sure to make every journey a journey inward. If you travel within, you’ll reach the whole world. Why are you so afraid of silence? Silence is the sea where all the drops of life gather; silence is the root of all spiritual practice." 

 

The Forty Rules of Love.  Elif Shafak, Turkish writer

 

​What is your drop of "life"  desperately avoiding the silence of the sea?  How can I use silence today to move from my individual drop identity back toward the infinite ocean?

A special place​

Tucked away on the cobblestones of Hospitalsgade, the Horsens Hospitalskirke is a poignant monument to eight centuries of charity. Originally the site of a 13th-century St. George’s House for lepers, it served as a vital stop for pilgrims offering alms. In 1560, King Frederik II transformed it into a "Holy Ghost" style hospital—not for surgery, but as a sanctuary for the elderly and infirm. This rare architectural hybrid integrates the chapel directly into the living quarters, symbolizing the era’s belief that physical care and spiritual healing were inseparable.

Inside, the church houses a Gothic altarpiece and a Romanesque bell dating back to 1200, likely salvaged from an earlier Catholic monastery. Though it held its final official service in 2021, the building remains a living legacy, still providing housing for the elderly today.

A special song

The sound of silence - Simon & Garfunkel

"Hello darkness, my old friend
I've come to talk with you again...

...In restless dreams I walked alone
Narrow streets of cobblestone"

Way of the Islands

Stage 2: Søvind to Alrø - 20 km

Description​

Walk from mainland green to island serenity on the route to Alrø. Leaving the hills  of Sondrup behind, you'll follow the shoreline east across salt marshes and open fields as Horsens Fjord opens up around you.

The highlight of the route is crossing the Alrø Dam—a 1-kilometer causeway built in 1929 that feels like walking right across the water. It’s a great stretch for spotting wading birds and sailboats drifting out toward the Kattegat.

On the island, a short path leads to Alrø Kirke, a picturesque 14th-century whitewashed church surrounded by classic Danish countryside. It’s a peaceful spot to end the hike—and leaves you just steps away from trying one of the island's famous giant tartlets at a local farm café.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery: No supermarkets are available in this stage.

  • Restaurants: several options are available on Alrø in the weekends and in summer. 

  • Alternative overnight options:  you can find private accommodations through Airbnb or on Alrø Feriehus. 

Alræ.jpg

Spiritual input​

​"And God said, ‘Let the waters under the heavens be gathered together into one place, and let the dry land appear.’ And it was so. God called the dry land Earth, and the waters that were gathered together he called Seas. And God saw that it was good" 

 

Genesis 1:9-10 , The Bible

 

Where in my life do I need God (or the Sacred) to draw boundaries and bring order out of chaos?  What “waters” inside me still need to be gathered so that new life can appear?

A special place​

Alrø’s history blends Viking legend with royal heritage. Local lore says King Hjarne of Hjarnø gifted the island to his wife, Alrune, naming it "Alrune’s Island." While flint artifacts prove habitation since the Stone Age, the island gained prominence in the Middle Ages as Danish Crown property, serving as a prestigious royal hunting ground for hares.

The island’s character remains remarkably preserved. Unlike most Danish villages, Alrø’s original half-timbered farmsteads still line the main village street. Coupled with the 14th-century Alrø Church, the island stands as a living museum of Denmark’s rural and agricultural evolution.

A special song

Lady Antebellum - Ocean

"Here you are, next to me
So much beauty at my feet
All I wanna do is swim, but the waves keep crashin' in
No, I'm not afraid to drown
Take me out, take me down"

Way of the Islands

Stage 3: Alrø to Hou - 12 km

Description​

Set off through the tranquil, pastoral heart of Gylling, a charming village where winding lanes are lined with traditional thatched houses and historic farmsteads. The path leads you through vast, undulating wheat fields and coastal meadows toward the maritime hub of Hou. In Hou, the atmosphere shifts to a bustling harbor energy; watch the fishing boats and yachts bobbing in the marina before boarding the ferry to Samsø.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery: Supermarkets are available in Gylling, Hou and Tunø.

  • Restaurants:  Cafe Skuden and Køst in Hou.

  • Alternative overnight options:  you can pitch a tent or use shelters, details available via the “Shelter” app. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations in Hou through Airbnb or stay at the local camping some kms north of the town. 

Hou-havnefyr-A.jpg

Spiritual input​

"When despair for the world grows in me and I wake in the night at the least sound in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be, I go and lie down where the wood drake rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds. I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief. I come into the presence of still water. And I feel above me the day-blind stars waiting with their light. For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free."

 

The Peace of Wild Things, Wendell Berry

 

The "magic" of this poem lies in one specific phrase: "who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief."  Can you find a "still water" moment in your day where you aren't "taxing your life" with what might happen tomorrow?

A special place​

Standing proudly at the entrance to Hou Harbour in East Jutland, the vivid red harbour lighthouse (Hou Havnefyr) is a classic local landmark. Perched on the pier, its bold, vibrant tower guides ferries and sailboats safely into port, offering a quintessential Danish maritime photo spot overlooking Samsø Belt.

A special song

Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper - Shallow

"Tell me something, girl
Are you happy in this modern world?

...

Tell me something, boy
Aren't you tired trying to fill that void?"

Way of the Islands

Stage 4: Samsø, Sælvig to Nordby- 18 km

Description​

Begin your day with a scenic maritime hop to Samsø. Your island trek starts at Sælvig, heading north along the expansive, sun-drenched sands of Sælvigbugten. This flat, rhythmic coastal walk offers endless horizon views and a crisp sea breeze. As the shoreline curves, the terrain shifts, leading you into the sheltered embrace of Mårup Havn, a quaint, historic harbor tucked beneath the looming Nordby Hills.  From the harbor, follow the winding inland trails to Nordby. Frequently voted Denmark’s most beautiful village, Nordby feels like a living fairytale. This journey perfectly captures the transition from Samsø’s sandy shores to the rugged, postcard-perfect charm of the North Island.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • You can find the timetable and buy tickets for the ferry from Hou to Samsø on the official site or at the Hou harbor. 

  • Grocery: supermarkets are available in Hou (recommended to buy lunch) or towards the end of the stage in Mårup.

  • Restaurants:  several restaurants in Nordby and, in summer, also the one at the picturesque harbor Mårup Havn is open.

  • Alternative overnight options:  the Oasen offers rooms and apartments for rent at a convenient price, while the Klitgård Camping offers both shelters, cabins and tent space.  Other options include B&B Mårup and Nordby Kro.  In case, you would like to split up this stage in two, you might consider staying at Sælvigbugten Camping.

samso 1.webp

Spiritual input​

"We are as the flute, and the music in us is from thee; we are as the mountain and the echo in us is from thee… We are as pieces of chess engaged in victory and defeat: yet we are rolling like waves toward thee"

 

Jalāl ad-Dīn Rūmī, Persian poet and Sufi teacher

 

What areas of my life do I sense a deeper ‘music’ trying to emerge, and how can I become more open to expressing it?  Where do I feel pulled toward something greater than myself, and what small step could I take to move more consciously in that direction?

A special place​

Voted Denmark’s best-preserved village, Nordby is a picturesque time capsule on Northern Samsø. Its heart is the iconic village pond, surrounded by winding streets and vibrant half-timbered houses with hollyhocks and thatched roofs.  Historically a "fortebye," its farms originally formed a protective ring around a central common. Because local farmers moved their operations to the fields late in history, the medieval town structure remains remarkably intact. Notable landmarks include the distinctive yellow bell tower (built in 1857 to signal the village when church bells were out of earshot) and the traditional red timber town wells.

A special song

The Host of Seraphim - Dead Can Dance

Way of the Islands

Stage 5: Loop North Samsø - 17 km

Description​

Begin your loop at the historic Nordby Kirke, perched high above the village, before descending to the rugged shoreline. Follow the coast to Ballebjerg, Samsø’s highest point; climb the white observation tower for breathtaking views of the Kattegat.  Continue along the dramatic coastal ridges to Issehoved, the island’s northernmost tip, where the sea clashes over a narrow sandy spit. From here, trek south along the eastern beach toward Klitgård Camping, where the landscape flattens into serene dunes. Turn inland for a whimsical detour at the Samsø Labyrinten, the world’s largest permanent land maze. After navigating its forested paths, a final stroll through rolling pastures leads you back into the heart of Nordby. This 15km journey showcases the very best of Denmark’s "Nordic Highlands," from windswept cliffs and crashing waves to the peaceful, storybook charm of the village.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery:  no supermarket is available on this stage, closest is in Mårup.

  • Restaurants:  several restaurants in Nordby.

  • Alternative overnight options:  the Oasen offers rooms and apartments for rent at a convenient price, while the Klitgård Camping offers both shelters, cabins and tent space.  Other options include B&B Mårup and Nordby Kro

samsæ 2.jpg

Spiritual input​

"Where can I go from your Spirit?  Where can I flee from your presence?
If I go up to the heavens, you are there;  if I make my bed in the depths, you are there.  If I rise on the wings of the dawn,  if I settle on the far side of the sea,  even there your hand will guide me,  your right hand will hold me fast.
If I say, “Surely the darkness will hide me and the light become night around me,”  even the darkness will not be dark to you; the night will shine like the day, for darkness is as light to you."

 

Psalm 139, The Bible

As you stand at the edge of the sea, looking out at the vastness stretching before you — is there something in your life you've been trying to run from? The same water that surrounds this island surrounds every "far side" you could flee to. What would it feel like to stop, right here, and let yourself be found?

A special place​

Issehoved is the dramatic northern tip of Samsø, where the island tapers into a dynamic sandspit reaching into the Kattegat. Much like Skagen’s Grenen, this "mini-Skagen" constantly shifts its shape and direction based on the day’s winds and currents.

The area is part of the protected Nordby Bakker, a vast landscape of rolling glacial hills and treeless grasslands. From the high ridges nearby, you can enjoy panoramic views of Aarhus, the Mols Bjerge, and the island of Hjelm. 

A special song

Louis Armstrong - What A Wonderful World

"I see skies of blue
And clouds of white
The bright blessed day
The dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world"

Way of the Islands

Stage 6: Samsø, Nordby to Hou - 22 km

Description​

This final stretch on Samsø takes you through the most unique landscapes of Samsø’s central belt, transitioning from the rugged north to the tranquil Stavns Fjord.

Start by heading east from Nordby to Nordby Strand, where you’ll follow the shoreline south. This peaceful beach walk leads you to the isolated Langør Kirke, a beautiful church standing alone on a ridge overlooking the water. From here, the trail hugs the curve of the bay toward Stavns, offering a front-row seat to the fjord’s protected islets and rich birdlife.

Leaving the coast, you’ll trek inland through the quiet, traditional villages of Alstrup and Toftebjerg, surrounded by the island's famous vegetable fields. The path eventually brings you back to the west coast at Sælvig. After miles of coastal beauty and pastoral charm, board the ferry to Hou, watching the silhouette of Samsø fade as you return to the mainland.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery: supermarkets are available in Mårup (at the beginning of this stage) or in Hou (at the end of it).

  • Restaurants: in summer, you can find a restaurant in the middle of this stage in Langør.  Otherwise in Sælvig, before taking the ferry to the mainland,  check out Samsø Perlen. In Hou there are a couple of restaurants open all year round: Cafe Skuden and Køst.

  • Alternative overnight options: you can pitch a tent or use shelters outside Sælvig or Hou, details available via the “Shelter” app. You can pitch tent or rent a cabin at the local camping. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations in Hou through Airbnb or stay in Sælvig at Samsø Perlen.  In case, you would like to split up this stage in two, you might consider to stay at Yduns Have

samso 3.webp

Spiritual input​

"We are still struggling in the Ocean of Birth and Death [Samsara]; let us awaken, turn back, and reach the other shore [Nirvana]"

 

Māhayāna Buddhist Concept

 

If I listen deeply within, what subtle inner whisper or direction invites me toward the ‘other shore’—toward ease, awakening, or spaciousness—and how does my body respond when I imagine following it?

A special place​

Langør is a serene natural harbor tucked behind the reefs of the protected Stavns Fjord. Its deep, calm waters have made it a strategic maritime hub since the Viking Age; nearby, the Kanhave Canal was dug in 726 AD to grant Viking longships a quick shortcut across the island.

 

The village is home to Samsø’s smallest and youngest church, Langør Kirke (1925), which sits atop a hill as a landmark for sailors. Inside, you’ll find a poignant votive ship—a model of the five-masted training ship København, which vanished mysteriously in 1928. Today, Langør is a peaceful retreat famous for its birdlife, traditional smokehouses, and "seal safaris."

A special song

Into the West - Annie Lennox

"What can you see on the horizon?
Why do the white gulls call?
Across the sea
A pale moon rises
The ships have come to carry you home"

Way of the Islands

Stage 7:  Tunø - 8 km

Description​

The sea crossing from Hou leads to Tunø, a car-free sanctuary where peace reigns. The crown jewel is the 8km coastal loop. Beginning at the harbor, you’ll scale the dramatic paths of Tunø Klint, where towering clay ridges offer breathtaking views across the Kattegat. The trek takes roughly three hours, traversing stony beaches and wild, floral landscapes in near-total silence. Conclude at the island’s iconic church, unique for its tower that serves as a lighthouse, before enjoying fresh seafood by the docks.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • You can find the timetable and buy tickets for the ferry from Hou to Tunø on the official site or at the Hou harbor. 

  • Grocery: Supermarkets are available in  Hou and Tunø.

  • Restaurants:   Mejeriet and Røgeriet  in Tunø. 

  • Alternative overnight options:  you can use the shelters in Tunø, details available via the “Shelter” app.  Rooms for rent are available at Mejeriet , Tuno B&B  ,  and Blåkærgård. You can pitch your tent or rent a cabin at the local camping. Alternatively you can take the ferry back to Hou and overnight there.

232897_tunoe-kirke.png

Spiritual input​

"Lead, gentle light, surrounded by the dark, guide me forward!
The night is dark, and I am far from home; guide me forward!
Protect my steps; I do not need to see the far-off path.
Just one step at a time is enough for me. 

I was not always like this, nor did I pray for You
To guide me forward.
I loved to choose and see my own path, but now
Guide me forward!
I loved the bright, showy day, and despite my fears,
Pride controlled my choices. Please forget those past years!

For so long, Your power has blessed me, and I am sure it still
Will guide me forward,
Over hills and bogs, over rocks and rushing waters, until
The night is gone,
And with the morning, those angel faces smile
That I loved long ago, and lost for a little while!."

 

Lead kindly light,  John Henry Newman.

 

In what area of your life are you currently trying to control or foresee the entire outcome, and what would it feel like to let go of needing to see the full path and simply trust taking "one step at a time"?

A special place​

Tunø Church (Tunø Kirke) is one of Denmark's most unique architectural landmarks, famous for its dual identity. Built in the 14th century, the church tower was extended in 1801 to serve as a lighthouse, standing 31 meters above sea level. This makes it the only church in the country where the minister and the lighthouse keeper were historically the same person.

A special song

Simon & Garfunkel - Bridge Over Troubled Water

"If you need a friend
I'm sailing right behind.
Like a bridge over troubled water
I will ease your mind."

Way of the Islands

Stage 8:  Hou to Ajstrup - 20 km

Description​

Setting off from Hou, the journey takes you northward past tranquil, dune-lined shores where traditional wooden summer houses hide among the greenery. After passing the wide, golden sands of the popular Dyngby and Saksild beaches, the route leads around the gentle headland of Kysing Næs. Here, the landscape transitions beautifully into Norsminde, a lively maritime hub nestled at the mouth of a protected fjord sanctuary teeming with migratory birdlife.

Norsminde serves as the perfect mid-walk break for your seaside walk. Watch sailboats navigate the narrow sluice channel, or reward yourself with a well-earned meal by the water, whether enjoying seafood at the local Fiskehuset or dining at the historic 17th-century Norsminde Kro inn. Continuing for just a few more kilometers north along the coast, your day concludes at the inviting shores of Ajstrup Strand.

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Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Coming soon

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery: Supermarkets are available in Hou and in Saksild (only in summer).

  • Restaurants:   Bondehuset and Trekanten in Saksild, Havblik in Rude, Fiskehuset and Norsminde Kro in Norsminde 

  • Alternative overnight options:  You can pitch your tent or rent a cabin at the local camping.  You can use the shelters few kms after Ajstrup, details available via the “Shelter” app.  Rooms for rent are available on AirBnB and Booking.com. 

norsminde-kro.jpg

Spiritual input​

"Let everything happen to you: beauty and terror.
Just keep going. No feeling is final.
Don’t let yourself lose me.

Nearby is the country they call life.
You will know it by its seriousness.

Give me your hand."

Go to the Limits of Your Longing,  Rainer Maria Rilke

 

What intensity or uncomfortable emotion am I currently trying to push away—and what might happen if, instead of resisting it, I gently allowed myself to feel it, knowing “no feeling is final”?

A special place​

Nestled where Norsminde Fjord meets the Kattegat, Norsminde Kro is one of Denmark’s oldest and most iconic inns. Its story began in 1292 when King Erik Menved granted Aarhus Cathedral the rights to collect harbor customs and establish an inn.

In 1693, it earned the title of Kongelig privilegeret kro (Royally Privileged Inn), obligating the innkeeper to host travelers in exchange for tax-free brewing and distilling. The innkeeper also maintained the fjord's bridge and collected tolls—guarded by two giant wooden statues of Holger Danske and Burmand.

After centuries of noble ownership, the inn entered private hands in 1825 and was run by the Alrøe family for over a hundred years. 

A special song

Bon Iver - Holocene

"At once I knew

I was not magnificent."

Way of the Islands

Stage 9: Ajstrup to Aarhus - 21 km

Description​

This final leg transitions from the sunny coastline into the deep, ancient beech forests of Aarhus before ending in the city's historic heart.  From Ajstrup Strand, walk north through the lush Moesgaard Forest. Your first destination is Skovmøllen, a picturesque watermill tucked in a hidden valley, followed by the nearby Moesgaard Museum. This architectural masterpiece, with its iconic grass-covered roof, houses the world-famous Grauballe Man.

After soaking in the history, head back to the coast at Moesgaard Strand. The trail winds along the high cliffs of Marselisborg Skov, where massive beech trees hang over the water. You’ll pass the Infinite Bridge—a circular wooden pier—and the Royal residence, Marselisborg Palace. As you enter Aarhus, the path guides you past several of the city historical landmarks. Your journey concludes at Vor Frue Kirke, where you can visit the atmospheric 11th-century crypt, the oldest in Scandinavia.

Helligdom​​​ - Pilgrim accomodation

  • Piermatteo offers accommodation in the cozy shelter in his garden, including use of bathroom and dinner together.  Text him in advance: +45 41825953.

 

​Maps

Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download 

​​

Practicalities: ​

  • Grocery: supermarkets available only once in Aarhus.

  • Restaurants: many options available in Aarhus.  In the middle of the stage, the iconic restaurant Skovmøllen and the one inside Moesgaard Museum are open most days at lunch.

  • Alternative overnight options: several shelters available in Aarhus - details via the "Shelter" app.  Otherwise budget rooms available at Danhostel. If you want to break the stage in 2 day, Hørhavegården is a really good option.

moesgaard-museum-visitaarhus.jpg

Spiritual input​

"Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth; for the first heaven and the first earth had passed away, and the sea was no more.  And I saw the holy city, the new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband.

[...] And the one who was seated on the throne said, “See, I am making all things new.” Also he said, “Write this, for these words are trustworthy and true.” 6 Then he said to me, “It is done! I am the Alpha and the Omega, the beginning and the end. To the thirsty I will give water as a gift from the spring of the water of life."

 

Revelation 21, The Bible

 

Where do I sense hope emerging in my life right now, even if only faintly? How does this vision of ‘all things made new’ encourage me to nurture that hope?”

A special place​

A short walk from Moesgaard Museum through the Marselisborg Woods brings you to Skovmøllen, a historic watermill dating back to 1570. The current half-timbered buildings from the 18th century house a beloved traditional restaurant. With its low ceilings, crooked walls, and the sound of the Giber Å stream turning the mill wheel, it feels like a Danish fairytale. 

A special song

Time to say goodbye - Andrea Bocelli

"When I'm alone
I dream of the horizon
and words fail;
yes, I know there is no light
in a room where the sun is absent,
if you are not here with me.
At the windows
show everyone my heart
which you set alight;
enclose within me
the light you
encountered on the street.

Time to say goodbye. -- I'll go with you
to countries I never
saw and shared with you,
now, yes, I shall experience them.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer;
it's time to say goodbye. -- with you I shall experience them.

When you are far away
I dream of the horizon
and words fail,
and, yes, I know
that you are with me;
you, my moon, are here with me,
my sun, you are here with me
with me, with me, with me.

Time to say goodbye. -- I'll go with you
to countries I never
saw and shared with you,
now, yes, I shall experience them.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer,

with you I shall experience them again.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer,
with you I shall experience them again.
I'll go with you.

You and me."

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