Way of the Islands
Stage 1: Horsens to Sondrup - 21 km
Description
Experience a perfect blend of history and nature on this trek from Horsens to the serene Sondrup Strand. Start your journey at the 16th-century Hospitalkirke, before a short stroll to the majestic Klosterkirke, the city’s oldest landmark. From here, join the Fjordminoen trail, heading east along the northern coast of Horsens Fjord. The urban bustle quickly fades as you pass through the coastal meadows of Stensballe and the bird-rich marshes near Brigsted, offering views of the protected island of Vorsø. The finale takes you through the dramatic, glaciated terrain of Sondrup Bakker. After winding through steep, pine-scented forest trails, you’ll emerge at Sondrup Strand. This hidden gem features a calm, shallow coastline perfect for a refreshing dip or a quiet picnic, framed by the rolling hills of East Jutland.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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You can easily reach Horsens by train from most of Denmark, including Copenhagen and Aarhus. If you come from abroad, you might consider to fly to Billund airport and then take a quick public bus.
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Grocery: Several supermarkets are available in Horsens. The next and last opportunity to shop will be in Søvind, at the end middle of the stage—please check opening hours in advance.
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Restaurants: A pizzeria is available in Søvind, open from 4pm.
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Alternative overnight options: you can pitch a tent or use shelters in several locations once passed Søvind, details available via the “Shelter” app. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations through Airbnb. Rooms for rent are available at Søvind Kro but needs to be agreed in advance.
Spiritual input
"East, west, south, or north makes little difference. No matter what your destination, just be sure to make every journey a journey inward. If you travel within, you’ll reach the whole world. Why are you so afraid of silence? Silence is the sea where all the drops of life gather; silence is the root of all spiritual practice."
The Forty Rules of Love. Elif Shafak, Turkish writer
What is your drop of "life" desperately avoiding the silence of the sea? How can I use silence today to move from my individual drop identity back toward the infinite ocean?
A special place
Tucked away on the cobblestones of Hospitalsgade, the Horsens Hospitalskirke is a poignant monument to eight centuries of charity. Originally the site of a 13th-century St. George’s House for lepers, it served as a vital stop for pilgrims offering alms. In 1560, King Frederik II transformed it into a "Holy Ghost" style hospital—not for surgery, but as a sanctuary for the elderly and infirm. This rare architectural hybrid integrates the chapel directly into the living quarters, symbolizing the era’s belief that physical care and spiritual healing were inseparable.
Inside, the church houses a Late Gothic altarpiece and a Romanesque bell dating back to 1200, likely salvaged from an earlier Catholic monastery. Though it held its final official service in 2021, the building remains a living legacy, still providing housing for the elderly today.
A special song
The sound of silence - Simon & Garfunkel
"Hello darkness, my old friend
I've come to talk with you again...
...In restless dreams I walked alone
Narrow streets of cobblestone"
Way of the Islands
Stage 2: Sondrup to Alrø - 15 km
Description
Transition from the lush mainland to island serenity as you walk from Sondrup Strand to the historic Alrø Kirke. Leaving the hills and forest of Sondrup behind, you’ll follow the coastline eastward through open marshlands and golden fields, where the air grows saltier and the horizon widens.
The centerpiece of this journey is the crossing of the Alrø Dam. This kilometer-long causeway, built in 1929, offers the unique sensation of walking on water, with the Horsens Fjord stretching out on both sides. Keep an eye out for wading birds and sailboats drifting toward the Kattegat.
Once on the island of Alrø—famed for its idyllic "Morten Korch" atmosphere—a short walk leads you to Alrø Kirke. This charming, whitewashed Romanesque church has stood since the 14th century. It’s the perfect, peaceful terminus for your walk before heading to a local farm café for the island's legendary giant tartlets.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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Grocery: No supermarkets are available in this stage.
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Restaurants: several options are available on Alrø in the weekends and in summer.
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Alternative overnight options: you can find private accommodations through Airbnb or on Alrø Feriehus.
Spiritual input
"And God said, ‘Let the waters under the heavens be gathered together into one place, and let the dry land appear.’ And it was so. God called the dry land Earth, and the waters that were gathered together he called Seas. And God saw that it was good"
Genesis 1:9-10 , The Bible
Where in my life do I need God (or the Sacred) to draw boundaries and bring order out of chaos? What “waters” inside me still need to be gathered so that new life can appear?
A special place
Alrø’s history blends Viking legend with royal heritage. Local lore says King Hjarne of Hjarnø gifted the island to his wife, Alrune, naming it "Alrune’s Island." While flint artifacts prove habitation since the Stone Age, the island gained prominence in the Middle Ages as Danish Crown property, serving as a prestigious royal hunting ground for hares.
The island’s character remains remarkably preserved. Unlike most Danish villages, Alrø’s original half-timbered farmsteads still line the main village street. Coupled with the 14th-century Alrø Church, the island stands as a living museum of Denmark’s rural and agricultural evolution.
A special song
"Here you are, next to me
So much beauty at my feet
All I wanna do is swim, but the waves keep crashin' in
No, I'm not afraid to drown
Take me out, take me down"
Way of the Islands
Stage 3+4: Alrø to Tunø - 12+ 8 km
Description
Set off through the tranquil, pastoral heart of Gylling, a charming village where winding lanes are lined with traditional thatched houses and historic farmsteads. The path leads you through vast, undulating wheat fields and coastal meadows toward the maritime hub of Hou. In Hou, the atmosphere shifts to a bustling harbor energy; watch the fishing boats and yachts bobbing in the marina before boarding the ferry.
The crossing leads to Tunø, a car-free sanctuary where peace reigns. The crown jewel is the 8km coastal loop. Beginning at the harbor, you’ll scale the dramatic paths of Tunø Klint, where towering clay ridges offer breathtaking views across the Kattegat. The trek takes roughly three hours, traversing stony beaches and wild, floral landscapes in near-total silence. Conclude at the island’s iconic church, unique for its tower that serves as a lighthouse, before enjoying fresh seafood by the docks
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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You can find the timetable and buy tickets for the ferry from Hou to Tunø on the official site or at the Hou harbor.
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Grocery: Supermarkets are available in Gylling, Hou and Tunø.
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Restaurants: Cafe Skuden and Køst in Hou. Mejeriet and Røgeriet in Tunø.
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Alternative overnight options: you can pitch a tent or use shelters outside Hou and in Tunø, details available via the “Shelter” app. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations in Hou through Airbnb or stay at the local camping some kms north of Hou. Rooms for rent are available in Tunø at Mejeriet , Tuno B&B , and Blåkærgård.
Spiritual input
"When despair for the world grows in me and I wake in the night at the least sound in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be, I go and lie down where the wood drake rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds. I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief. I come into the presence of still water. And I feel above me the day-blind stars waiting with their light. For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free."
The Peace of Wild Things, Wendell Berry
The "magic" of this poem lies in one specific phrase: "who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief." Can you find a "still water" moment in your day where you aren't "taxing your life" with what might happen tomorrow?
A special place
Tunø Church (Tunø Kirke) is one of Denmark's most unique architectural landmarks, famous for its dual identity. Built in the 14th century, the church tower was extended in 1801 to serve as a lighthouse, standing 31 meters above sea level. This makes it the only church in the country where the minister and the lighthouse keeper were historically the same person.
Inside, the church is a treasure trove of maritime history, featuring several beautifully detailed votive ships hanging from the ceiling.
A special song
Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper - Shallow
"Tell me something, girl
Are you happy in this modern world?
...
Tell me something, boy
Aren't you tired trying to fill that void?"
Way of the Islands
Stage 5: Samsø, Sælvig to Nordby- 18 km
Description
Begin your day with a scenic maritime hop, taking the ferry from Tunø back to Hou before boarding the ship to Samsø. Your island trek starts at Sælvig, heading north along the expansive, sun-drenched sands of Sælvigbugten. This flat, rhythmic coastal walk offers endless horizon views and a crisp sea breeze. As the shoreline curves, the terrain shifts, leading you into the sheltered embrace of Mårup Havn, a quaint, historic harbor tucked beneath the looming Nordby Hills. From the harbor, follow the winding inland trails to Nordby. Frequently voted Denmark’s most beautiful village, Nordby feels like a living fairytale. This journey perfectly captures the transition from Samsø’s sandy shores to the rugged, postcard-perfect charm of the North Island.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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You can find the timetable and buy tickets for the ferry from Hou to Samsø on the official site or at the Hou harbor.
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Grocery: supermarkets are available in Hou (recommended to buy lunch) or towards the end of the stage in Mårup.
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Restaurants: several restaurants in Nordby and, in summer, also the one at the picturesque harbor Mårup Havn is open.
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Alternative overnight options: the Oasen offers rooms and apartments for rent at a convenient price, while the Klitgård Camping offers both shelters, cabins and tent space. Other options include B&B Mårup and Nordby Kro. In case, you would like to split up this stage in two, you might consider to stay at Sælvigbugten Camping.
Spiritual input
"We are as the flute, and the music in us is from thee; we are as the mountain and the echo in us is from thee… We are as pieces of chess engaged in victory and defeat: yet we are rolling like waves toward thee"
Jalāl ad-Dīn Rūmī, Persian poet and Sufi teacher
What areas of my life do I sense a deeper ‘music’ trying to emerge, and how can I become more open to expressing it? Where do I feel pulled toward something greater than myself, and what small step could I take to move more consciously in that direction?
A special place
Voted Denmark’s best-preserved village, Nordby is a picturesque time capsule on Northern Samsø. Its heart is the iconic village pond, surrounded by winding streets and vibrant half-timbered houses with hollyhocks and thatched roofs. Historically a "fortebye," its farms originally formed a protective ring around a central common. Because local farmers moved their operations to the fields late in history, the medieval town structure remains remarkably intact. Notable landmarks include the distinctive yellow bell tower (built in 1857 to signal the village when church bells were out of earshot) and the traditional red timber town wells.
A special song
The Host of Seraphim - Dead Can Dance
Way of the Islands
Stage 6: Loop North Samsø - 17 km
Description
Begin your loop at the historic Nordby Kirke, perched high above the village, before descending to the rugged shoreline. Follow the coast to Ballebjerg, Samsø’s highest point; climb the white observation tower for breathtaking views of the Kattegat. Continue along the dramatic coastal ridges to Issehoved, the island’s northernmost tip, where the sea clashes over a narrow sandy spit. From here, trek south along the eastern beach toward Klitgård Camping, where the landscape flattens into serene dunes. Turn inland for a whimsical detour at the Samsø Labyrinten, the world’s largest permanent land maze. After navigating its forested paths, a final stroll through rolling pastures leads you back into the heart of Nordby. This 15km journey showcases the very best of Denmark’s "Nordic Highlands," from windswept cliffs and crashing waves to the peaceful, storybook charm of the village.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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Grocery: no supermarkets are available on this stage.
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Restaurants: several restaurants in Nordby.
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Alternative overnight options: the Oasen offers rooms and apartments for rent at a convenient price, while the Klitgård Camping offers both shelters, cabins and tent space. Other options include B&B Mårup and Nordby Kro.
Spiritual input
"Where can I go from your Spirit? Where can I flee from your presence?
If I go up to the heavens, you are there; if I make my bed in the depths, you are there. If I rise on the wings of the dawn, if I settle on the far side of the sea, even there your hand will guide me, your right hand will hold me fast.
If I say, “Surely the darkness will hide me and the light become night around me,” even the darkness will not be dark to you; the night will shine like the day, for darkness is as light to you."
Psalm 139, The Bible
As you stand at the edge of the sea, looking out at the vastness stretching before you — is there something in your life you've been trying to run from? The same water that surrounds this island surrounds every "far side" you could flee to. What would it feel like to stop, right here, and let yourself be found?
A special place
Issehoved is the dramatic northern tip of Samsø, where the island tapers into a dynamic sandspit reaching into the Kattegat. Much like Skagen’s Grenen, this "mini-Skagen" constantly shifts its shape and direction based on the day’s winds and currents.
The area is part of the protected Nordby Bakker, a vast landscape of rolling glacial hills and treeless grasslands. From the high ridges nearby, you can enjoy panoramic views of Aarhus, the Mols Bjerge, and the island of Hjelm.
A special song
Louis Armstrong - What A Wonderful World
"I see skies of blue
And clouds of white
The bright blessed day
The dark sacred night
And I think to myself
What a wonderful world"
Way of the Islands
Stage 6: Samsø, Nordby to Hou - 22 km
Description
This final stretch on Samsø takes you through the most unique landscapes of Samsø’s central belt, transitioning from the rugged north to the tranquil Stavns Fjord.
Start by heading east from Nordby to Nordby Strand, where you’ll follow the shoreline south. This peaceful beach walk leads you to the isolated Langør Kirke, a beautiful church standing alone on a ridge overlooking the water. From here, the trail hugs the curve of the bay toward Stavns, offering a front-row seat to the fjord’s protected islets and rich birdlife.
Leaving the coast, you’ll trek inland through the quiet, traditional villages of Alstrup and Toftebjerg, surrounded by the island's famous vegetable fields. The path eventually brings you back to the west coast at Sælvig. After miles of coastal beauty and pastoral charm, board the ferry to Hou, watching the silhouette of Samsø fade as you return to the mainland.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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Grocery: supermarkets are available in Mårup (at the beginning of this stage) or in Hou (at the end of it).
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Restaurants: in summer, you can find a restaurant in the middle of this stage in Langør. Otherwise in Sælvig, before taking the ferry to the mainland, check out Samsø Perlen. In Hou there are a couple of restaurants open all year round: Cafe Skuden and Køst.
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Alternative overnight options: you can pitch a tent or use shelters outside Sælvig or Hou, details available via the “Shelter” app. You can pitch tent or rent a cabin at the local camping. Otherwise you can look for private accommodations in Hou through Airbnb or stay in Sælvig at Samsø Perlen. In case, you would like to split up this stage in two, you might consider to stay at Yduns Have.
Spiritual input
"We are still struggling in the Ocean of Birth and Death [Samsara]; let us awaken, turn back, and reach the other shore [Nirvana]"
Māhayāna Buddhist Concept
If I listen deeply within, what subtle inner whisper or direction invites me toward the ‘other shore’—toward ease, awakening, or spaciousness—and how does my body respond when I imagine following it?
A special place
Langør is a serene natural harbor tucked behind the reefs of the protected Stavns Fjord. Its deep, calm waters have made it a strategic maritime hub since the Viking Age; nearby, the Kanhave Canal was dug in 726 AD to grant Viking longships a quick shortcut across the island.
The village is home to Samsø’s smallest and youngest church, Langør Kirke (1925), which sits atop a hill as a landmark for sailors. Inside, you’ll find a poignant votive ship—a model of the five-masted training ship København, which vanished mysteriously in 1928. Today, Langør is a peaceful retreat famous for its birdlife, traditional smokehouses, and "seal safaris."
A special song
"What can you see on the horizon?
Why do the white gulls call?
Across the sea
A pale moon rises
The ships have come to carry you home"
Way of the Islands
Stage 7: Hou to Ajstrup: - 20 km
Description
From the maritime bustle of Hou, your journey continues northward along a coastline where the wild Kattegat meets green Danish landscapes. The path brings you along a series of stunning beaches: the quiet reaches of Hølken Strand, the wide horizons of Dyngby Strand, and the lively, white sands of Saksild and Rude. These stretches are a sun-seeker's paradise, leading you eventually to Norsminde. This picturesque natural harbor, famous for its historic inn and vibrant marina, marks the entrance to a protected bird sanctuary at the fjord's mouth. The final leg takes you past the harbor to Ajstrup Strand. Here, the coastline broadens into a pristine, child-friendly beach framed by low dunes and summer villas. This 15km walk perfectly captures the East Jutland spirit: a harmonious blend of deep blue sea, golden sands, and tranquil woodland.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Coming soon
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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Grocery: a supermarket is available in Hou.
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Restaurants: a couple of great options are available along the path including Havblik, Fiskhuset and Norsminde Kro. Check opening hours in advance.
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Alternative overnight options: 2 shelters are available in Ajstrup, details available via the “Shelter” app. Otherwise you can consider pitching your tent or rent a cabin at the local camping. Really nice rooms and a good breakfast are offered in Norsminde Kro.
Spiritual input
"A person who is not disturbed by the incessant flow of desires—that enter like rivers into the ocean, which is ever being filled but is always still—can alone achieve peace, and not the man who strives to satisfy such desires."
Bhagavad Gita 2:70, Hindu philosophy
What constant "rivers" (desires, commitments, notifications) are flowing into my life right now? How can I cultivate inner stillness and non-reactivity, even when my life feels full?
A special place
Norsminde is a scenic maritime gem where the Norsminde Fjord meets the Kattegat. Historically a Viking trade hub, it is now famous for the Norsminde Kro, a historic inn dating back to 1693 known for its gourmet "Slow Food." The harbor is divided into a bustling marina and a quiet lagoon for local fishers, perfect for crabbing or enjoying fresh seafood from the local Fiskehus. Surrounded by a bird sanctuary, the area offers peaceful walks around the Kysing Næs peninsula, blending high-end dining with the rugged, natural beauty of the East Jutland coast.
A special song
Way of the Islands
Stage 8: Ajstrup to Aarhus - 21 km
Description
This final leg transitions from the sunny coastline into the deep, ancient beech forests of Aarhus before ending in the city's historic heart. From Ajstrup Strand, walk north through the lush Moesgaard Forest. Your first destination is Skovmøllen, a picturesque watermill tucked in a hidden valley, followed by the nearby Moesgaard Museum. This architectural masterpiece, with its iconic grass-covered roof, houses the world-famous Grauballe Man.
After soaking in the history, head back to the coast at Moesgaard Strand. The trail winds along the high cliffs of Marselisborg Skov, where massive beech trees hang over the water. You’ll pass the Infinite Bridge—a circular wooden pier—and the Royal residence, Marselisborg Palace. As you enter Aarhus, the path guides you past several of the city historical landmarks. Your journey concludes at Vor Frue Kirke, where you can visit the atmospheric 11th-century crypt, the oldest in Scandinavia.
Helligdom - Pilgrim accomodation
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Piermatteo offers accommodation in the cozy shelter in his garden, including use of bathroom and dinner together. Text him in advance: +45 41825953.
Maps
Click here for free maps to be used on your mobile phone and GPX files download
Practicalities:
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Grocery: supermarkets available only once in Aarhus.
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Restaurants: many options available in Aarhus. In the middle of the stage, the iconic restaurant Skovmøllen and the one inside Moesgaard Museum are open most days at lunch.
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Alternative overnight options: several shelters available in Aarhus - details via the "Shelter" app. Otherwise budget rooms available at Danhostel. If you want to break the stage in 2 day, Hørhavegården is a really good option.
Spiritual input
"Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth; for the first heaven and the first earth had passed away, and the sea was no more. And I saw the holy city, the new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband.
[...] And the one who was seated on the throne said, “See, I am making all things new.” Also he said, “Write this, for these words are trustworthy and true.” 6 Then he said to me, “It is done! I am the Alpha and the Omega, the beginning and the end. To the thirsty I will give water as a gift from the spring of the water of life."
Revelation 21, The Bible
Where do I sense hope emerging in my life right now, even if only faintly? How does this vision of ‘all things made new’ encourage me to nurture that hope?”
A special place
A short walk from Moesgaard Museum through the Marselisborg Woods brings you to Skovmøllen, a historic watermill dating back to 1570. The current half-timbered buildings from the 18th century house a beloved traditional restaurant. With its low ceilings, crooked walls, and the sound of the Giber Å stream turning the mill wheel, it feels like a Danish fairytale.
A special song
Time to say goodbye - Andrea Bocelli
"When I'm alone
I dream of the horizon
and words fail;
yes, I know there is no light
in a room where the sun is absent,
if you are not here with me.
At the windows
show everyone my heart
which you set alight;
enclose within me
the light you
encountered on the street.
Time to say goodbye. -- I'll go with you
to countries I never
saw and shared with you,
now, yes, I shall experience them.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer;
it's time to say goodbye. -- with you I shall experience them.
When you are far away
I dream of the horizon
and words fail,
and, yes, I know
that you are with me;
you, my moon, are here with me,
my sun, you are here with me
with me, with me, with me.
Time to say goodbye. -- I'll go with you
to countries I never
saw and shared with you,
now, yes, I shall experience them.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer,
with you I shall experience them again.
I'll go with you
on ships across seas
which, I know,
no, no, exist no longer,
with you I shall experience them again.
I'll go with you.
You and me."